At the top of Hotel Clement, the first London hotel from ex-Soho House founder Nick Jones, chef Florence Knight has opened Lunette — her first permanent restaurant since the much-loved Sessions Art Club. It sits high above the city with river views, and the review from our source suggests the room alone justifies a booking.

The design leans residential rather than restaurant: deliberately sparse seating, sofas, coffee tables stacked with art books, and tables sized for six assigned to parties of two. Details are obsessively curated — ceramics by Japanese potter Tetsuya Otani, handblown Danish glassware, a custom sound system, and gin martinis served in two halves so the second pour stays properly cold. Even the staff uniforms, designed by Alex Eagle (who also worked on the wider hotel), come paired with bright-yellow Onitsuka Tiger sneakers.

Knight's cooking follows the same restrained approach that made her name at Sessions: a small handful of ingredients per plate, arranged with an artist's eye. Standouts include salmon roe choux buns crowned with nasturtium flowers, and squid with sweet runner beans in tomato water flecked with chartreuse-coloured oil.

The main caveat from the reviewer? Portion sizes. The tasting menu runs six courses plus amuse-bouche and petit fours, but plates are dainty — there's no bread course, and one serving of the cock crab and egg yolk rice with shell butter left the reviewer wanting more. The generous wine pairing (think dry Marsala matched with caviar) outpaces the food in volume. Rescue arrives at the end, though, in the form of Knight's silky, salty chocolate torte — a Sessions signature with a crumbly, slightly chewy base that nearly makes up for the earlier restraint.

For travellers, this is one of the most talked-about new openings in the city right now, so bookings will be competitive. Go for a special occasion or a long, stylish evening rather than a hearty feast, and consider a pre-dinner snack if you're arriving hungry. Pair it with a stay at Hotel Clement itself for the full rooftop-to-bed experience.