If your idea of a good beach day involves palm trees, the north Northumberland coast will take some adjusting to. But that is exactly its appeal. Amble sits where the River Coquet meets the North Sea, a working harbour town a few miles from the Scottish border that Visit Northumberland has dubbed England's friendliest port.

The layout is simple and satisfying: a busy marina, a boardwalk running out across the water to a red-and-white striped lighthouse, and two beaches within easy walking distance. Little Shore is a curved sweep of sand facing a calm lagoon, backed by meadows and a row of pastel-painted wooden huts that photograph beautifully. Links Beach, south of town, is rockier and quieter, with grass-topped dunes and views across to the white lighthouse on Coquet Island.

Wildlife is a genuine draw here rather than an afterthought. Grey seals splash around the waterfront, and low tide exposes wide mudflats where herons, egrets, ducks and razorbills feed. For something more structured, Dave Gray's Puffin Cruises runs boat trips from the harbour to Coquet Island in summer, where you can hear nesting puffins and spot seals hauled up on the shore.

Then there is the food, which for many visitors will be the main reason to come. The Fish Shack, a clapboard cabin right on the quay, serves haddock chowder, seafood platters, mussels in cream sauce and beer-battered haddock with mushy peas — diners say it is a little pricey but worth it. Next door, The Old Customs House Tearooms occupies a honey-coloured stone cottage with armchairs and homemade cakes. For something more traditional, The Harbour Inn is a proper English pub with a chalkboard listing the catch of the day, plus seafood curry and smoked salmon on the menu. Rooms are available at The Harbour Inn, Radcliffes Lodge or The Amble Inn if you want to stay overnight.

Amble also works well as a base. History fans can hop on a bus to the 15th-century ruins of Warkworth Castle, the village of Alnmouth with its own beach and pubs is 15 minutes north, and the market town of Morpeth is half an hour south. Newcastle upon Tyne is under an hour's drive away, Bamburgh with its famous castle around 25 miles north, and Seaham's cliffs and beaches about an hour south.

This is a trip for travellers who like their seaside honest rather than glossy: bracing walks, fresh fish, birdlife and a pint by the harbour. It is easy to reach from Newcastle, walkable once you arrive, and quiet enough to feel like a proper escape without being hard to plan.