Twelve miles southwest of downtown Boston, a grassy hill with kite-flying lawns, playgrounds and miles of wooded trails hides an unlikely backstory: it's built on top of a former city dump. Millennium Park in West Roxbury opened in 2000 on the capped Gardner Street Landfill, sealed off in 1994. In a neat piece of engineering recycling, the mountain of garbage was buried under soil dug out of the Big Dig — Boston's famous downtown tunnel project — so much of the ground visitors walk on came from beneath the city's skyscrapers.

The park covers 100 acres, which surprises people who only know the central hill with its sports fields and swings. Two main trails lead out into the surrounding woodland. The Blue Heron Trail is a roughly three-mile out-and-back route along wetlands that are a magnet for birds — eBird users have logged more than 240 species here, including herons, indigo buntings and common nighthawks, so bring binoculars. If that's not enough legwork, the City on the Hills Trail starts in Millennium Park and runs 6.8 miles through a chain of neighbouring woods and parks.

Down at the water, the Charles River is a calm, pond-like stretch well before it winds through the city centre. There's a kayak launch, and the flat banks and wetlands are easy to explore by paddleboard or canoe. From the hilltop, meanwhile, you get one of the few open outlooks in the Boston area — a clear line of sight to the downtown skyline that makes a good reminder of how green this city is.

Practicalities: the park is only about 10 miles from Boston Common, but driving can take over half an hour in gridlock on confusing local streets. Public transport exists but will cost you at least an hour with a transfer or two. Most people drive, and there's a parking lot on site.

For overnight options, nearby Dedham is the smart move. It has shopping, restaurants and chain hotels — typically a little over $100 a night, a fraction of Boston prices — and most are about a 12-minute drive from the park. That makes it a handy base if you're road-tripping into the city and want to leave the car while you explore downtown on foot.

Millennium Park suits a specific kind of traveller: families with young kids who need space to run, birders chasing a long species list, paddlers after an easy put-in, and anyone who's already done the Freedom Trail and wants a quieter side of Boston. It's proof that a city's least glamorous real estate can become one of its most useful outdoor spaces — and it belongs on the list for a return trip to Boston.