Fiji's main gateway has a split personality, according to a recent firsthand review. Arriving passengers at Nadi International Airport are welcomed with live music and guitars at security — a genuinely joyful touch that sets the holiday mood the moment you land. Leaving, though, is a different story: cramped, crowded and dull, with little to do once you're through.

The writer arrived at the airport in an unconventional way that's worth knowing about. Instead of sitting in traffic from Port Denarau, they took a private water taxi from Cloud 9, the famous floating bar off Malolo Island, and disembarked at Naisoso Landing — a small marina directly behind the airport. From there it was a four-minute transfer to the terminal. For anyone maximising time in the Mamanuca islands on their final day, this shortcut sounds like a smart move.

First impressions of the terminal are good. The modern L-shaped building has hangar-style ceilings, tropical landscaping and flowers everywhere. Pre-flight, service can be smoothed with Fiji Airways' Premier Service for FJ$170 (about A$108), which includes curb-side greeting and a separate express check-in — useful when the afternoon departure banks of flights stack up.

Then comes Nadi's quirk: after your ticket is scanned at the gate, every piece of carry-on gets a hand search. Officers at trestle tables on an open-air balcony inspect each bag individually. It catches most travellers off guard and, with a dozen staff working through every bag, can create real bottlenecks in a gate area that's already short on space.

Beyond security, expectations should be low. Food options amount to a Burger King, a snack bar with prepackaged sandwiches and pastries, and crisps and chocolate at WHSmith. Shopping is better: Prouds and Tappoo duty-free sit alongside Rip Curl, Nike and a jeweller, and there's a solid selection of Fijian goods worth grabbing — local rums like Bati Coconut Rum, spices, tropical shirts, Pure Fiji coconut sugar rub, and crafts from Rise Beyond the Reef, a not-for-profit women's collective.

The verdict: three stars out of five. Departures cluster in the late afternoon and early evening, squeezing too many passengers into a waiting area best described as plastic chairs and a handful of shops. The one redeeming feature is the view — sunsets over Wailoaloa Bay from the gate. With Pacific tourism booming and the nearby Wailoaloa Resort area growing, Nadi's departure facilities are clearly straining against demand.

For travellers, the practical takeaways are simple. Arrive with buffer time, don't be surprised by the bag hand-check, eat a proper meal before security, and do your souvenir shopping — it's the one strong point landside of the gates. And if you're staying in the islands rather than Denarau, consider ending your trip with that water taxi to Naisoso Landing. The writer's trip was hosted by Tourism Fiji and Fiji Airways.

Review by Traveller (Sydney Morning Herald).