There's a quirky way to cross from Mexico into Belize: by boat. Instead of grinding through a land border by bus, backpackers can sail from the port city of Chetumal straight to the Caribbean islands of San Pedro and Caye Caulker — immigration paperwork and all. One recent crossing, recounted by Indie Traveller, shows it's a straightforward day if you plan it right.
Two companies run the route, alternating days and working in tandem. San Pedro Belize Water Taxi Express sails Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays (daily in high season) at 3:30pm, while Islander Ferries (also known as Water Jets International) leaves Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays at 10am. Both charge roughly $80-90 one-way — the first adds a $9 online booking fee — and since they share boats, policies and ports, timing matters more than operator. Bookings can be made up to three hours before departure, though a week ahead is safer in low season when schedules shift.
The travel day looks like this: an early ADO bus from Bacalar to Chetumal takes about 40 minutes, then a 10-15 minute taxi to the waterfront — ask for the 'Marina' or 'muelle fiscal'. Aim to be at the port two hours early, as Mexican exit immigration is slow, form-heavy and strict about late arrivals. Carry some cash in case you're asked for a small exit or port tax. After a two-hour crossing you'll stop at San Pedro, where onward passengers clear Belizean immigration (expect an hour's wait), then continue about 45 minutes over mangrove-lined water to Caye Caulker, arriving around 6:30pm on the afternoon sailing.
A few practicalities worth knowing. Luggage is limited to one bag plus a personal item — bikes and surfboards cost extra and need notice. The boats are small, with no food, drink or guaranteed toilets, and the ports have no shops either, so pack water and snacks.
As for Chetumal itself: it's a working, unglamorous city rather than a tourist draw, but our writer found it harmless in daylight despite its nervous reputation. If you're on the 10am ferry, stay overnight; the Downtown Hostel, about eight minutes' walk from the port, has dorm beds for around $10. Coming from Tulum or further north, also stay the night — a connection mishap would blow the 3:30pm departure. From Bacalar, an early bus gets you there in time.
Some travellers pick this route believing a Mexico land exit fee can be dodged; reports conflict, and whether you pay may depend on your nationality and length of stay. Honestly, though, arriving on a tropical island by sea is reason enough.
