Dublin rewards the short-stay visitor better than most capitals. Everything that matters sits within a tram ride, and a long weekend is genuinely enough to cover the heavy hitters — plus a stretch of wild coastline most visitors never reach.

Start with the classics. Trinity College, founded in 1592, runs student-led walking tours of its cobbled campus, and the Old Library pairs neatly with the Book of Kells experience, which throws the ninth-century manuscript across the walls in vivid 3D. For something livelier, the Little Museum of Dublin near St Stephen's Green packs 29 minutes of city history into guides who are half historian, half stand-up. Lunch is a queue-worthy schiacciata sandwich at Morso on Drury Street, and a cherry bun from Bewley's — all 1920s Egyptomania shopfront — is the proper way to open the morning.

Afternoon one belongs to Kilmainham Gaol, the 1796 prison that held generations of Irish revolutionaries. Guided tours take in the sky-lit Victorian wing and the chapel where 1916 leader Joseph Plunkett married Grace Gifford hours before his execution (the source calls her Grace Clifford — in fact she was Grace Gifford). Book online in advance. Round the day off at the Guinness Storehouse or a whiskey pour at Roe & Co, then dinner at Michelin-starred Variety Jones, where the relaxed six-course menu might run from pork-and-prawn dumplings to barbecued halibut.

Day two digs into social history. Breakfast rolls from Declan and Donal's fuel a visit to 14 Henrietta Street, a single Georgian house that went from viscount's residence to tenement home for 100 people over 300 years. The Luas then drops you at Glasnevin Cemetery, resting place of Michael Collins and Constance Markievicz — climb the 198 steps of Ireland's tallest round tower for city-and-sea views. Lunch across the wall at John Kavanagh's, the legendary "Gravediggers" pub run by one family since 1833, is a Guinness-and-beef-stew affair. Spend the afternoon browsing the creative quarter around Drury Street, George's Street Arcade and Powerscourt Centre before tapas at Uno Mas.

The third day is the local's secret: Dublin is a coastal capital, and the Dart train runs straight along the bay. Grab pastries at Bread 41, ride north to Howth and hike the cliff, heath and woodland trails above the harbour. A late seafood lunch at Mamó — Michelin-listed, with a casual ground-floor counter — earns itself. Back in town, EPIC, the Irish Emigration Museum, tells the diaspora story, with a walk past The Jeanie Johnston replica emigrant ship along the river. Finish at the Abbey, the national theatre, then live music seven nights a week at McNeill's around the corner.

Who's this for? Anyone with a long weekend, an appetite and a weakness for a proper pub — the itinerary balances museum-grade history with cliff air and live sessions.