A cruise ship carrying just 740 guests used to be unremarkable. Now it's rare — and it's the main reason Crystal Serenity keeps being held up as one of the most luxurious ships afloat. After a $150 million refit in 2023, capacity was actually cut from over 1,000 to 740 passengers, with suites enlarged in the process. The Sapphire Veranda Suites, for instance, were carved out of two old cabins and now offer separate living and sleeping areas plus a proper veranda.

That scale changes everything on board. Crew members learn your name and your preferences, some suites come with butler service (canapés delivered, minibar included, laundry handled), and the ship's loyalty culture is striking — one returning guest has sailed 430 cruises, while several crew members have spent decades with the line. The result feels closer to a private club than a resort.

Food is a genuine draw rather than an afterthought. Beyond the main Waterside dining room with nightly-changing menus, there are three specialty venues: Umi Uma, chef Nobu Matsuhisa's Japanese-Peruvian restaurant and winner of Best Restaurant at Sea at the 2024 F&B Sea Awards; Beefbar, with a French Riviera swagger; and Osteria d'Ovidio for Italian. Crucially, almost everything is already covered — meals, drinks, Wi-Fi, port fees, gratuities and entertainment — so there's no end-of-cruise bill shock.

Days at sea are busy if you want them to be: a 3,000-square-foot fitness centre with ocean views, yoga, Pilates, pickleball, a 2,000-book library, cinema, casino and guest lectures that range from astronomy to maritime history — the ship styles itself as a floating university, not without reason. Evenings split between Broadway-style shows in the Galaxy Lounge and intimate supper-club nights in the Stardust Club. Ashore, excursions run from free shuttles to private car and guide.

For travellers weighing a luxury cruise against a land-based holiday, the case here is simple: no surprise charges, no queues, no fighting for a deckchair. Sister ship Crystal Symphony sails Mexico, South America, the Caribbean, Europe, Scandinavia, the Mediterranean, Iceland and Greenland in 2027, and a new ship, Crystal Grace, launches on 11 June 2028 with an eight-night voyage from Civitavecchia near Rome to Fusina in Venice.