National Geographic has named British Columbia's Howe Sound Crest Trail among the top ten 'hikes of a lifetime' in North America — and it's barely half an hour from downtown Vancouver. That combination of big-city access and genuine wilderness is what makes this 18-mile point-to-point route such a rare thing: you can be eating breakfast in the city and standing on an exposed alpine ridge by mid-morning.
The trail runs mostly within Cypress Provincial Park, tracing the crests of the North Shore Mountains above Howe Sound, the southernmost fjord on the continent, which sits between Vancouver and Bowen Island. It starts at Cypress Mountain — roughly 30 minutes by car from the city and an hour from Vancouver International Airport. There's no regular public transport to the trailhead, though Cypress Coach Lines runs a seasonal summer service. Since the route is point-to-point, finishing at Porteau Cove, you'll need to sort a pickup at the far end.
Don't let the relatively short distance fool you. This is a punchy, demanding hike with sharp ascents and descents, scrambly rock underfoot and ledges that demand care. The route opens with switchbacks up to St. Mark's Summit, the busiest stretch thanks to its proximity to the city — but things thin out quickly once you drop down the far side. From there it's a rolling grind over Mt. Unnecessary, West Lion, Enchantment Pass and James Peak, with constant views over the Sound. The David Peak to Magnesia Meadows section is carpeted with blueberry bushes — a nice trail snack in season, though bears like them too, so make noise as you walk. The finale passes Brunswick Lake and Deeks Lake before a steep drop to Porteau Cove.
You could technically do the whole thing in a day, but most hikers are better off spreading it over two or three. There are no official campgrounds, yet wilderness camping is allowed along the entire route. The emergency shelter at Magnesia Meadows, around nine miles in, is a favourite thanks to its views of Mount Harvey and the Sound, plus a small nearby lake. For a three-day trip, Brunswick Lake's south shore is where experienced hikers tend to pitch up.
Self-sufficiency is the deal here. With no facilities or amenities on the trail, you'll need to carry everything for two or three days: tent, sleeping bag, first aid kit, and water purification tablets or a filter so you can use the lakes and streams. Bear precautions are non-negotiable — a bear canister for food storage overnight and bear spray for emergencies.
For travellers, this is the kind of hike that justifies a whole trip to Vancouver: a genuine multi-day alpine adventure that slots neatly onto the front or back of a city break, with Whistler, Squamish and the Sea-to-Sky Highway all within easy reach for extending the trip. Fit hikers with backpacking experience will get the most out of it; casual walkers can still sample the St. Mark's Summit section as a day hike from the Cypress Mountain end.
Story via Explore.com