Head into deep winter and London does something odd to your sense of time. Around the winter solstice in late December, the British capital gets barely eight hours of daylight — sunrise close to 8am, sunset not long after 3.45pm — which means for weeks on end, the night is technically longer than the day. That sounds grim on paper. In practice, it's one of the most atmospheric times to be in the city.

The short days aren't a flaw; they're the whole appeal if you plan around them. Darkness falls mid-afternoon, which front-loads your sightseeing and turns the evening into the main event. London leans into it: Regent Street and Carnaby Street switch on their Christmas lights in November, Kew Gardens runs its illuminated after-dark trail, and Winter Wonderland sprawls across Hyde Park with markets, ice rinks and enough mulled wine to keep anyone warm. Pubs with fires and low ceilings suddenly make a lot more sense at 5pm.

If you'd rather see the sights in daylight, flip your schedule. Museums and galleries — most of them free, from the British Museum to Tate Modern — open mid-morning, so a couple of hours of culture before lunch still leaves you an afternoon of outdoor wandering while there's light. Greenwich for the view from the park, a walk along the South Bank from Westminster to Tower Bridge, or a spin through Borough Market all work well squeezed into the daylight window. Then let the city's interiors and illuminations take over once the sun drops.

Practicalities matter more than usual at this time of year. The shortest days cluster around 21 December; by late January, daylight is climbing back noticeably. Pack layers and something waterproof — it's more often damp than properly cold — and book anything seasonal (light trails, theatre, festive afternoon teas) well ahead, since the run-up to Christmas is peak season for exactly these things. New Year's fireworks on the Thames are ticketed, so don't roll up hoping to walk in.

Who is this for? Anyone who likes cities at their most cosmetically dramatic: twinkling streets, steam off the river, an excuse to be indoors in a good pub by six. It's less ideal if you need long days of outdoor walking or you're sensitive to grey skies — though photographing London lit up at 4pm has its own reward.

The gist: yes, London's winter nights outnumber its days for a few weeks around the solstice. Treat that as a feature, build your days around the short daylight window, and hand your evenings over to light displays, markets and pubs — and you'll get a version of the city that summer visitors never see.