A cow being led up a muddy riverbank is not the usual wake-up call on a luxury cruise, but that is exactly what greeted passengers aboard AmaMelodia as it docked en route to Mompox, one of Colombia's most atmospheric and least-known destinations. The small river ship, operated by AmaWaterways, carries about 50 passengers along the Magdalena River between Cartagena and Barranquilla, stopping at the river port that many Colombians regard as something close to sacred.
Founded in 1537 by Spanish conquistadors, Santa Cruz de Mompox grew rich on the gold and silver flowing out of Colombia's mines, with merchants building grand villas and the church commissioning bold, colourful cathedrals. Then the Magdalena silted up in the early 20th century, the paddle steamers retired, and the 'city of churches' drifted into obscurity. That stagnation is precisely its appeal: cobbled streets, candy-coloured colonial facades and whimsical church spires survive intact, earning the town UNESCO World Heritage status. Fewer than 50,000 people live here, and it remains linked to Gabriel Garcia Marquez's brand of magical realism, even though there is no proof it inspired Macondo in One Hundred Years of Solitude.
Reaching Mompox used to mean a six-hour bus ride from Cartagena through nothing but trees, houses and dogs, as one local guide recalls. Arriving by river is far more pleasant, and increasingly popular with travellers chasing the town's growing reputation as a rising star of Colombia's Caribbean coast. The writer's visit happened to coincide with the town's annual jazz festival, with cumbia, salsa and blues bands playing through the heavy tropical heat. Even on ordinary days, the town delivers oddities: a man feeding iguanas as friendly as puppies, donkeys in backstreets, lush courtyard gardens glimpsed through doorways.
Why go now: Mompox is still under-visited relative to Cartagena, which means you can experience a genuine colonial-era river town before word spreads. It suits travellers who like their destinations slow, hot and strange — this is not a checklist of attractions but a place to wander, listen and let the tropical languor do its work. AmaWaterways' seven-day itineraries, Magic of Colombia and Wonders of Colombia, start from $4968 a person and pair the river journey with Colombia's Caribbean coast.
Practicalities: pack for serious heat and humidity, expect some rough edges (the locals are described as brusque) and few formal sights, and time a visit around the jazz festival if you want the streets at full volume. Bring a decent book — ideally Marquez — because Mompox rewards travellers who arrive ready for somewhere that operates on its own otherworldly frequency.
Traveller (Sydney Morning Herald)
