England's seaside towns get a bad press — decades of decline, faded promenades, closed-up arcades. Redcar, on the North Sea coast of Teesside, is quietly pushing back. Sitting about 44 miles north of Scarborough and roughly an hour's drive south of Newcastle upon Tyne, the town peaked in the 1960s and 70s, but a recent injection of more than $33 million in government funding, plus a revamped train station, high street and esplanade, is giving it a second act. Locals and businesses are driving the revival, and while opinions on the town are still mixed, that's hardly unique to Redcar.

The headline draw is the beach — actually several beaches that read as one continuous eight-mile sweep of sand on either side of the town centre. Redcar Beach, closest to downtown, is ideal for long walks, though the tide goes out far enough that a swim means a decent trek across the sand. Head up the coast to Coatham Beach for quieter stretches and gentler, safer swimming; it runs past the River Tees estuary to the South Gare Breakwater and its historic lighthouse. Continue on and you'll hit Granville, Stray and Marske beaches before Saltburn-by-the-Sea, so even on a busy day there's room to spread out.

The seafront has its quirks. The 80-foot Redcar Beacon divides opinion — some call it an eyesore — but it delivers 360-degree views over water, beaches and countryside, and The Beacon Lounge at its base offers alfresco dining in private pods. Look out too for the Birger Anchor Mariners' Memorial and the Penguin Colony sculptures along the front.

Food is where Redcar genuinely stands apart. Its signature is the lemon top ice cream, invented here in the 1920s and still made by Pacittos, which has shops on the High Street and the esplanade — a vanilla cone crowned with a swirl of lemon-flavoured foam that devotees rate among the best ice cream in the country. For savoury options, The Boathouse and Terrace sits beside Coatham Boating Lake and is praised for its full English breakfast and evening live music, while Cluck & Moo in the town's Northern Quarter tops Tripadvisor with bottomless brunches, Sunday roasts and flame-grilled chicken and beef. Don't leave without trying a parmo, the local specialty: butterflied, crumbed chicken breast topped with béchamel and cheese.

Getting there is easy. Redcar is just over an hour's drive from both Newcastle and Scarborough, with trains taking about 1.5 hours and buses around 2.5 hours from those cities. Accommodation ranges from beachfront hotels to rentals in town.

Redcar won't suit travellers chasing boutique coastal glamour — this is a traditional, unpretentious English seaside day out. But that's exactly the appeal: clean sand, cold North Sea swims, retro ice cream and proper local food, all without the crowds of Cornwall or the North Yorkshire hotspots. Pair it with a trip up the coast to Alnmouth or the fishing town of Eyemouth for fresh seafood, and you've got a satisfying northeast England coastline itinerary. Story via Islands.