Alsace in December might be the most festive corner of Europe, and a small-ship river cruise is arguably the smartest way to see it. Family-owned French line CroisiEurope runs several Christmas market itineraries along the Rhine Canal, including a four-day barge trip that starts and finishes in Colmar and caps passenger numbers at just 22. The pitch is simple: no driving between towns in freezing fog, no hunting for parking, no eye-watering hotel prices — and unlimited mulled wine, since everything on board is included, right down to the bar.
The rhythm of the trip is easy to love. Mornings are spent gliding slowly through wintry scenery — no night sailing — with time in the deck hot tub and chances to spot herons, swans and stork nests. Afternoons bring coach excursions with an English-speaking guide. On board, meals are chef-prepared and paired with regional wines, and there are extras like gingerbread tastings and a napkin-folding session (turns out you can make a Christmas tree out of one, and take the skill home).
The first stop, Kaysersberg, is a medieval village in the heart of the vineyards that won France's "Favourite Village" TV contest in 2017. Cobbled lanes, half-timbered houses and a 13th-century castle set the scene; decorating is taken so seriously here that, as one guide put it, neighbours will knock if your house isn't done up. The market itself is small but genuinely artisanal, spread across wooden chalets, with vendors selling vin chaud and pretzels. A worthwhile detour: Levain, a sourdough bakery on rue de Tir run by two-Michelin-star chef Olivier Nasti and a finalist for France's best bakery in 2025 — the kugelhopfs and Christmas cookies are the draw.
Riquewihr gives Kaysersberg stiff competition for prettiest village. Vineyards roll right down to wonky cobblestone streets lined with medieval houses, wine cellars and gift shops — including a Christmas decoration store open all year. Its market is bigger, with everything from handmade ornaments and toys to steaming bowls of sauerkraut and sausage.
The finale is Colmar, often called the capital of Christmas and unmistakably the busiest stop, especially at weekends. The cruise's coach drops passengers right at the market entrance in the old town — a genuine advantage over independent visitors — and a guided visit begins with hot chocolate at a chocolate museum. Dusk is the moment: lights come on, and the half-timbered houses glow as the smell of mulled wine, roast chestnuts and gingerbread fills the streets. The trip closes with a gala dinner on board among fellow passengers, who on this sailing came from the US, Britain, Canada and France.
For anyone who wants the full Alsatian Christmas experience without the logistics, this is a neat package: the big-name market in Colmar, the storybook villages, and a warm bed that moves with you. CroisiEurope also departs from Strasbourg, so you can build the trip around whichever gateway suits. Book early — festive sailings on small barges fill up well before December.
