Most travellers to El Salvador stick to the surf towns of the west. Head east, though, and the country changes character completely. La Unión, a department on the Gulf of Fonseca near the borders with Honduras and Nicaragua, trades surf breaks for volcanic islands, dark-sand beaches and fishing villages where tourism barely registers.

The gulf itself is the star attraction. Boat tours putter across water dotted with volcanic islands — Isla Zacatillo with its fishing community and Playa Playona, Meanguera del Golfo for a slice of everyday island life, and historically interesting Conchaguita. Schedules are informal, so sort out your return trip before you leave the mainland.

Back on solid ground, Conchagua Volcano delivers the best panoramic views in eastern El Salvador, with hiking, camping and celebrated sunrises over the gulf's islands. You'll likely need to arrange transport or hire a local guide for some viewpoints. The small colonial-flavoured town of Conchagua sits conveniently at the volcano's foot — worth a slow wander around its central park and historic church.

The beaches here aren't your typical golden-sand postcard. El Tamarindo, on the southeastern coast, is the pick for a relaxed atmosphere and shoreline walks. Las Tunas and Playas Negras have black volcanic sand, rocky formations and tide pools that appear at low water — photogenic, but slippery and exposed to waves. El Icacal near Intipucá and Playa Maculís suit travellers who want quiet and nature over facilities; don't expect lifeguards or much infrastructure at either. Swimming conditions vary widely, so check the water and tides before diving in.

La Unión city itself works well as a base. It's a working port with a long maritime history, a pleasant waterfront to stroll, and Parque de la Familia if you fancy a low-key afternoon. Fishing remains the region's economic heartbeat — you'll see it everywhere, from small boats heading out at dawn to seafood markets stacked with the day's catch.

And then there's the food. Fried fish, seafood soups and ceviche dominate coastal menus, alongside the country's beloved pupusas. Eating at local spots is cheap, delicious and puts money directly into small family businesses.

Practically speaking, La Unión sits roughly 180 kilometres from San Salvador by road. A rental car gives you the most freedom to hop between beaches and towns; public transport works but eats time. The dry season from November to April is best for hiking and boat trips — the green season is prettier but rain can scupper excursions. Budget a weekend for the highlights, or three days if you want to add the islands and volcano without rushing.

For anyone who's already done El Salvador's better-known hits, this is the country's quieter, more authentic corner — a place where the main activities are watching fishermen work, eating impossibly fresh seafood and taking a boat to an island most guidebooks skip.