Ten minutes by bus from Avignon's main square, Villeneuve-lès-Avignon looks like its twin: same honey-coloured stone, same medieval bones, a fraction of the tourists. Perched across the Rhône in the Gard, this compact town makes an smart base any time of year, but especially during July's Avignon Festival, when the city across the river heaves with theatre-goers and hotel prices spike.

The history here is genuine, not decorative. In 1309 Pope Clement V moved the papal court from Rome to Avignon, and for roughly 70 years French popes ruled the region. Villeneuve sat just outside papal territory, so Europe's richest cardinals snapped up its cliffs and vineyards to build country retreats — several of which survive as museums and hotels.

There are five headline sights, all walkable from the main street, Rue de la République. At the top of Mont Andaon, the Abbaye Saint-André pairs a 17th-century abbatial palace with terraced Italianate gardens and the tomb of Saint Casarie, a hermit who died here in 586. Next door, the 13th-century Fort Saint-André — built by the French crown to intimidate the Avignon popes — still shows centuries of prisoners' graffiti, with views reaching to Mont Ventoux. The Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction, one of Europe's largest Carthusian monasteries, holds three 14th-century cloisters, Pope Innocent VI's Gothic tomb and frescoes by Italian artist Matteo Giovannetti; during the festival, theatre is staged in its courtyard. Art lovers should head to the Musée Pierre-de-Luxembourg, a cardinal's manor housing Enguerrand Quarton's 1453 Coronation of the Virgin, among the most celebrated religious paintings of the 15th century. Round it off with a climb up Tour Philippe-le-Bel for 360-degree panoramas over the Rhône.

Beyond the monuments, Villeneuve works as a proper little city break. Rue de la République and the squares around Place Charles David are lined with antiques and concept stores, plus food shops worth planning around: Maison Bronzini for Provençal olive oils and vinegars, and La Magie des Pains for naturally leavened sourdough. There's a Provençal market on Thursday mornings and an antiques market on Saturdays at Place Charles David.

Sleep options lean historic. Maison Orsini occupies a 14th-century stone house that once lodged the Avignon popes, with a gourmet restaurant, Jacqueline. L'Heure Bleue offers four bright rooms above the town square; the Philippe le Bel guesthouse puts you in a 13th-century mansion with a mini-pool; Hôtel de l'Atelier fills a 16th-century home with 21 rooms in modern Provençal style. For dinner, L'Emulsion keeps things fresh and unfussy, while NaturAbsolu delivers plant-based gourmet cooking without meat, fish or dairy.

Practically speaking, it's easy: TGV from Paris Gare de Lyon to Avignon in about 2 hours 40 minutes, then a 10-minute taxi to Villeneuve — or simply hop the bus from Avignon centre. Come for a day, stay for a weekend, or use it as yourProvence base while Avignon's festival crowds queue next door.

Original coverage via France Today.