Kanazawa is one of Japan's best-preserved Edo-era cities — all geisha districts, gardens and a restored castle — yet it rarely makes the first draft of a Japan itinerary. A stay at Hotel Nikko Kanazawa makes a strong case for fixing that, not least because a luxury-standard room here can start around £65 a night.

The hotel sits a five-minute walk from Kanazawa station (though navigating the station's exits can take longer than the walk itself), which puts the Higashi Chaya geisha district, Kenrokuen Garden and Omicho Market all within a 30-minute walk. Buses cover the gaps if you'd rather not trek.

Inside, the tone is polished business chic rather than a traditional ryokan: a marble lobby with a large indoor fountain, a spiral staircase, thick rugs and plenty of seating — plus a florist on the first floor. Service makes an early impression too. The reviewer's luggage was forwarded from Kyoto a week ahead, and the concierge tracked it from departure to arrival and storage, a handy example of Japan's takkyubin luggage-forwarding culture done well.

The real draw is height. Of the 249 rooms (three are suites), those on the 17th floor and above look out over either the surrounding mountains or the Sea of Japan. A Comfort Double in autumn delivered snowy peaks and shifting foliage without leaving the bed. Rooms on lower floors are less grand, but beds are comfy and the bath/shower suites are generous.

Food is a strong point: eight dining and bar venues, including a Chinese restaurant on the 29th floor and a European one on the 30th. Benkay covers sushi and tempura, while Icho serves beef from the nearby Noto peninsula. Breakfast runs at Benkay or the western-style Garden House — the continental spread topped 40 dishes, with eggs cooked to order.

Facilities are thinner than at many luxury properties. There's no onsen, which matters if a hot-spring soak is on your Japan wishlist; instead, guests buy tickets at reception for the neighbouring Central Fitness Club, with gym, pool and sauna. Six event spaces (one seats over a thousand) and underground parking round things out. Check-in is 3pm, check-out a generous noon, kids of any age are welcome (13+ charged as adults), accessible rooms are available, and pets aren't allowed.

Who's it for? Pretty much anyone who wants a comfortable, well-located base in Kanazawa without resort prices — solo travellers, couples and families alike. Skip it if you're chasing traditional Japanese touches like onsen bathing. Do bring a camera: the views, from the marble entryway or your window, are the stay's signature.